Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear A Détacher

September 10, 2012 NEW YORK

By Maya Singer

In many ways, this latest outing from A Détacher was typical. Per usual, designer Mona Kowalska showed a number of sculptural dresses and tops that elaborated one construction technique—in this instance, a kind of gathered knot. The innovative knits were likewise familiar, though new for the season; so too, Kowalska's distinctive graphic prints. But there were also a few aspects of this collection that made it feel out-of-the-ordinary. For one thing, Kowalska has tended to be a designer not much fussed about trends, but this collection featured a few key looks that sang with the chorus. Her knotted apron dresses, for example, made for one of the better iterations of a style seen on a few other runways this season. The A Détacher jumpsuits, too, fit within a pattern, and here, again, Kowalska's versions counted among the best. A fitted tan jumpsuit, especially, evinced a stylish ease. Maybe the trendiness was purposeful, maybe it was coincidental, but either way, women will be looking for these pieces come spring.

The really uncharacteristic thing about this collection, though, was that it hinted at sex. A one-shouldered cobalt silk dress slunk around the body. Spaghetti-strap sundresses were cut low and open in back. And here and there, necklines made a daggering V. It wasn't exactly va-va-voom, but a gentle suggestiveness filtered through the collection, and that was welcome. There were a few weak looks here—Kowalska's trick of draping loops of material off skirt hems came off as affected, and the season's key print, a forest silhouette, just wasn't her best. Still, this was a solid showing—and in that regard, pretty typical